19/10/1989
Maison Martin Margiela by Shoichi Aoki

Shoichi Aoki, a pioneering figure in street fashion photography and long-time publisher of magazines such as STREET, FRUiTS, and TUNE, has been documenting cutting-edge street style around the world since the 1980s. It was on October 19, 1989, that Aoki first witnessed a Maison Martin Margiela show.

Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring/Summer 1990 presentation took place on October 19, 1989, in an immigrant neighborhood in the 20th arrondissement of Paris, in an abandoned lot enclosed by graffiti-covered fences. For the invitations, Margiela enlisted local schoolchildren, who drew pictures and hand-wrote “Martin Margiela / défilé été 1990” on pieces of brown cardboard. As a token of gratitude, Margiela invited the children to the show, reserving the front row for them.

The runway, a rugged terrain of rubble and broken concrete slabs, was covered with a large white waterproof sheet, where models walked at ground level alongside the audience, their hair styled into messy chignons. The color palette―white, ecru, and gray―set the tone for a collection that featured “cigarette” shoulder-padded jackets, PVC jackets outlined with white stitching, and tank tops made from supermarket plastic bags. Initially, the children watched anxiously, sitting at the feet of editors and buyers. But as the show progressed, they became increasingly animated, walking with the models, holding their hands, and even being carried on their shoulders―fully integrating into the experience. Outside the venue, uninvited journalists and photographers attempted to climb the walls with the help of local residents, eager to catch a glimpse of the unconventional spectacle.

Shoichi Aoki not only captured the models striding down the runway, but also photographed the vibrant atmosphere outside the venue and the outfits worn by the attendees. The exhibition “19/10/1989” presents 23 of these rare photographs online, showcasing these remarkable moments.

admission